As I embarked on a culinary odyssey through the picturesque county of Devon over the past few months, I couldn’t help but be captivated by the strength and vibrancy of the food, drink, and hospitality scene in this corner of South West England. With each twist and turn along Devon’s windy roads, under clear blue skies or brooding clouds, (and the occasional encounter with cows on the road!), I uncovered the essence of what makes this region a gastronomic gem.
One of the first highlights of my journey was a visit to the Devon County Show, a spectacle that embodies the spirit of the county’s agricultural and culinary traditions. Here, I witnessed the convergence of traditional and contemporary practices, from livestock displays to artisanal food stalls. The show serves as a platform for local producers to display their finest offerings and is a testament to Devon’s rich agricultural heritage demonstrating in a very visual sense the concept of Field to Fork.
Exeter’s culinary landscape has been elevated to new heights with the introduction of the prestigious Classic Fine Foods hub in the heart of the city. I had a chance to visit their launch and concluded that this establishment serves as a shining beacon not only for discerning connoisseurs seeking the world’s finest ingredients but also as a crucial gateway for Devon’s top producers to access global markets. It promises to be a pivotal catalyst in showcasing and exporting Devon’s exceptional culinary treasures to a worldwide audience.
At the heart of Devon’s thriving food and drink industry is the Food Drink Devon association. This collective of passionate producers, artisans, and establishments has been instrumental in promoting and preserving the region’s culinary heritage.
My next stop was at the Food Drink Devon Harvest Showcase which featured a delightful array of offerings from Sharpham Cheese, The Fresh Flour Co, Waterhouse Fayre and Ebb Tides and included a visit to Hunts Cider, Bays Brewery and Sandridge Barton Winery.
On a picturesque tractor ride through Hunts Cider Farm with customers, foodie influencers, and producers, I was transported back in time. This family-run orchard, spanning eight generations, exemplifies the dedication to preserving traditional orchards, which are not only good for local birds and wildlife but also essential for producing exquisite cider. The cider maker, Tim regaled me with stories of the properties of their cider and the myriad traditional apple varieties that grace their and surrounding orchards.
The cider-making process was a revelation, from natural yeast fermentation to hand-harvesting and the intricate steps involved in transforming apples into the golden nectar. The commitment to crafting high-quality cider was evident at every turn.
We then moved on to Bays Brewery, where we delved into the world of beer-making. It was enlightening to learn about the meticulous process that goes into brewing their signature beers, from selecting hops and grains to the final fermentation. What struck me most was their strong sense of community and their dedication to championing the local economy, evident through charity brews and seasonal beers that support worthy causes.
As the day drew to a close, our culinary exploration of Devon reached its zenith at Sandridge Barton Wines. Here, we were treated to a captivating spectacle as the harvest was brought in for pressing, marking the culmination of a year’s dedication and hard work in the vineyards.
A tour of the facilities at Sandridge Barton revealed the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into producing their exquisite wines. The blending of tradition and innovation was evident at every turn, ensuring that Devon’s vineyards remain at the forefront of wine production.
But the day’s journey had one more delightful surprise in store. We gathered to savour handcrafted cocktails expertly prepared by Hattiers Rum, Papillon Gin, Thunderflower Gin, Boo Chi Kombucha, and Devon Cove Vodka. These local spirits and beverages added the perfect finishing touch to our Devonian culinary adventure, showcasing the diversity and quality of the region’s libations. It was a toast to the rich tapestry of flavours that define Devon’s Food, Drink, and Hospitality scene—a tapestry that continues to evolve and enthral, both locally and on a global stage.
Whilst I was there, I also had the chance to meet Julie and Ian Dennis – founders of the South Devon Food Hub. They are keen advocates for buying locally and together with Greg Parsons from Sharpham Cheese (and the chair for Food Drink Devon) came up with the idea of an all-artisan local food producers’ ‘centre’. Julie said: “Initially we are simply providing a space where food and drink businesses can come together in a collaborative environment, enabling them to support each other, potentially share marketing, distribution, and storage, so saving not only costs but improving business resilience in these uncertain times. The possibilities are endless. Fundamentally we are creating a community here, we have spoken to many small business owners who say they can feel quite isolated at times, so we feel there is a greater need for what we are trying to offer here.” We’ve posted about the South Devon Food Hub previously. Find out more HERE.
My exploration of all that Devon has to offer concluded with the 12th annual Food Drink Devon Awards dinner, a glamorous affair where the region’s culinary stars gathered in their finest attire to celebrate the quality of the regions produce, focus on sustainability and promote Devon’s provenance. It was awe-inspiring to hear about the growth of this association from 100 members in 2011 to an impressive 444 today, uniting 350 businesses under its banner. It is a testament to the dedication and innovation of local businesses that have made Devon a culinary powerhouse.
The awards ceremony itself was a testament to the vibrant Devon food and drink community, with 135 awards recognizing excellence in various categories. It showcased the power of working collaboratively to champion local produce, create jobs, and foster sustainability.
The evening’s canapés and three-course dinner were created by Craig Beecham, head chef at Sandy Park, Matt Mason, chef director at Winslade Manor and Jamie Rogers, Restaurant Twenty Seven by Jamie Rogers who transformed the best raw ingredients into a delicious banquet. The menu featured fabulous local produce from FDD members and food and drink sponsors including Bar Buoy, Calancombe Estate, Crab Shed Salcombe, Dartmouth Foods, Bays Brewery, Ebb Tides, Sandford Orchards, Devon Eel Company, Huxbear Vineyard, Luscombe, No. 1 Coffee, Quicke’s Cheese, Salcombe Dairy Chocolate, Sandridge Barton Wines, Sharpham Cheese, Veyseys Butchers and Westcountry Fruit Sales.
More about the awards themselves have already been posted. Read the full story HERE.
In conclusion, the strength of Devon’s food, drink, and hospitality scene serves as a model for the South West of England and beyond. It embodies the values of community, sustainability, and excellence, emphasizing the importance of food and drink as the foundation upon which thriving communities are built. As I departed Devon, I carried with me a deeper appreciation for the motto ‘People, Planet, and Profit’ that define this culinary haven. Devon’s culinary renaissance is not just a feast for the senses; it’s a testament to the enduring spirit of a region deeply committed to the art of food and drink.
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