Dongnae, which opened on Chandos Road in Bristol just six weeks ago, takes its name from the Korean word Dongnae – meaning ‘neighbourhood’, conveying their sense of community and invitation to diners to discover refined Korean cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. The location in Redland in Bristol is already a thriving area for dining with the likes of Wilson’s restaurant, Little Hollows Pasta and The Kensington Arms just a stone’s throw away.
Dongnae is setting out to redefine the perception of Korean cuisine in the UK. With a laser focus on process and ingredients, chef-owners Kyu Jeong Jeon and Duncan Robertson are creating their interpretation of Korean dining without compromise. Bringing together influences from Kyu’s upbringing in Seoul and their time living there as a family, with their experiences working together in European kitchens, their meticulous attention to detail aims to deliver the very best iteration of each dish.
The team have launched a new set lunch menu that offers a great value way to discover Dongnae. Based on a traditional Korean format, always built on a foundation of rice and soup, this ‘compact Korean meal’ features a choice of main dish, accompanied by a soup made with dried pollock & Korean radish, two banchan, crispy vegetable tempura and kimchi. It is astounding value given the care and skill that has gone into every element, providing an intentional way to lunch, with dishes served in a perfectly portioned tray for one. The set lunch is available Wednesday to Saturday, 12-3pm.
Having established something of a cult following for their first restaurant, Bokman – a small, laid-back spot in the vibrant Stokes Croft area of Bristol – Kyu and Duncan have worked on the concept and menu of Dongnae for more than two years. Their aim was to push the fermentation elements of their dishes and create even more Korean staples from scratch, owning the entire process to ensure flavour and authenticity – from in-house ferments to fresh wasabi, grated to order. They are thought to be the only Korean restaurant in the UK making their own artisanal doenjang, gochujang, ganjang and even makgeolli (Korean rice “beer”).
They were keen to combine traditional Korean culture and cuisine with their expertise from time working at Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, such as two Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, three Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and two Michelin-starred Capital Hotel.
Chef-owner, Kyu Jeong Jeon says: “The Korean restaurant we’re creating is slightly different from others you might already know in the UK. Korean cuisine is incredibly diverse and deeply rooted in culture, and I’ve wanted to showcase aspects of it that I feel haven’t yet been widely explored. This is why I make my own fermented pastes and sauces from scratch, using only high-quality ingredients. From homemade doenjang and fish sauces to fermented seafood, some of these may even be unfamiliar to fellow Koreans.”
Chef-owner, Duncan Robertson says: “We also want to gently challenge the idea that all Asian cuisines are grouped together, and encourage people to come and enjoy Korean food in our version of a modern neighbourhood restaurant. It’s less about ‘going out for Korean’, and more about experiencing a delicious meal, where time and care has been put into every mouthful.”
The offering has plenty of variety with different menus and price points to allow greater accessibility. At lunchtime, in addition to the set lunch menu, diners can choose from a selection of the à la carte. Dinner offers an extended version of the à la carte menu, including a whole section dedicated to Korean BBQ techniques, with dishes from the authentic charcoal bulpan (grill) brought directly to the table. For the curious, a Hanjeongsik (omakase style) showcases some of the chefs’ favourite dishes, including Korean beef tartare, wild mushroom dolsotbap, salted jellyfish naengchae with Devon crab, grilled pork belly and various in-house condiments – think fresh wasabi grated to order, ssamjang and fermented clam (jeotgal).
Dongnae is supported by a wonderful network of local producers and suppliers, including their friend Ali from Rocketman Produce, who grows traditional Korean leaves and herbs in a nearby allotment, such as organic kkaennip and mu (Korean radish).
Like at its sister restaurant Bokman, the wine list focuses on low-intervention wines from Bristol-based importer Vine Trail. This is intended to create a symmetry between the fermentation in Korean cooking and a natural style of wine, adding another level of interest for diners. A wine flight is available to pair with the Hanjeongsik Menu (dinner only).
The restaurant is beautifully arranged across two former shop fronts, with a wooden countertop created by Bristol-based carpenter Liam Rush winding between both spaces. Guests are invited to sit at the counter overlooking the kitchen or bar, or at handmade tables in the restaurant itself. The space features large street-facing bay windows, allowing plenty of light to flood into the restaurant and open kitchen.
Kyu and Duncan’s interest in artisanal crafts is reflected throughout the design. Even the artwork for Dongnae’s branding is a showcase of Kyu’s creativity and artistic background, featuring her own painted brushstrokes, evoking a welcoming softness and sense of play. Kyu was keen to work with more Seoul-born artists and they are pleased to be displaying artwork by Woo Jin Joo, a Seoul-born mixed-media artist working predominately with textiles and embroidery, and also Taehyoung Jeon who creates depictions of plants in print form. Closer to home, a selection of handmade ceramics by Bert Jones – just over the bridge in Newport – and custom bulpan made by Liam Rush and Olly Hallett, round off the experience and give a personal touch.
Reservations can be made at: www.dongnae.co.uk Please follow them on Facebook and Instagram to stay up to date with their latest news.
Image credit: Benjamin Pryor
